My general approach to a holiday meal, back when I ate meat and now that I don't, is that it is all about the sides, and the sides are all about the gravy. All the same, it took a few years of meatless eating for me to realize I cared much less about creating a remote approximation of the holiday meal's iconic centerpiece than about creating a luscious, savory sauce to ladle over everything else at the table.The [...]
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