In Cambodia, David and I stand among teeming crowds to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat, a 12th century temple. It's 6 a.m. and already onlookers line the edges of a moat filled with blooming waterlillies. I hear a woman say, "I thought if I came early, I'd have the place to myself," and I laugh. About 14,000 people visit Angkor Wat daily and dawn is the best time to avoid the oppressive heat. Like one huge, unwieldy organism at the West Gate, we hold our breath, and when the sun pierces, [...]
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